Monday, February 17, 2014

LESSON IX - Part 3: Painting Bearded Irises


Drawing and painting purple irises can be a challenge!  It is also a great opportunity to draw these intricate, undulating shapes, and also to create some beautiful violet and purple colors through mixing and mingling on the paper.  We will use a range of colors to get both cool and warm temperatures, so that these irises will glow with warmth.







For this project, you'll need the following watercolor pigments (or something close to it):

Quinacridone or Permanent Rose, Quinacridone or Permanent Magenta, French Ultramarine, Cobalt Blue, Quinacridone Gold, Quinacridone Burnt Orange or Burnt Sienna, Sap Green, Alizarin Crimson, New Gamboge, and Hansa Yellow or Aureolin Yellow.

You'll also need some salt, and some alcohol (the rubbing kind) in a little bottle with a dropper -- for texture.  

1.  Start with a pencil drawing on the white watercolor paper, which has been mounted on a board.








Finish your drawing by adding long narrow leaves in the background.  Be sure to take them off the edge of your paper, so as to divide the negative space into interesting shapes.







2. Prepare a gold wash for the background.   Mix Quinacridone Gold with Yellow (New Gamboge).  Mix up enough water and paint together to cover the entire background.  Since you will be painting this onto dry paper, you need more water than usual.  Have a dropper-bottle of rubbing alcohol on hand.





3.  Paint this gold wash over the background.  Paint this wash onto dry paper, painting around the iris blossoms, by over the leaves and stems of the flowers.  Have your board at a slight angle when you paint, so that you have a "bead" at the bottom of the wash.  When you pick up more gold from your palette, you will pick up the "bead" and paint downward from there -- don't go back into what you've just painted.




Continue painting this gold wash until you come to a stopping point, at the bottom.  Then, lay the board flat, and add a few drops of alcohol to this wash.







Finish painting the rest of the background with this gold wash.  Then, lay it flat again and drop in a little of the alcohol drops.  Let this dry completely.

(There's no right or wrong way to add these drops.  Don't worry if it doesn't look exactly like this -- we're just adding a little "texture" to the background.)









4.  Paint the Yellow "Beards".  Clean off the gold wash from your palette.  Then, prep two yellows -- like Aureolin Yellow and New Gamboge.  You won't need much.  







Paint the "beards" with these yellows.  You can also paint a little of the yellow onto the middle veins of a few of the petals.








5.  Prep 3 pigments for the purple iris petals.  Clean off the yellow from the inside area of your palette.  Now prep 3 pigments -- French Ultramarine, Quinacridone Rose (or Permanent Rose), and Quinacridone Magenta (or Permanent Magenta).





6.  Paint each petal with these three colors.  Working wet-in-wet, start with the Rose, then switch to the Magenta.






Finish off the petal with the Blue.




While the petal is still wet, turn your board upside down, touch your brush to the blue, and "pull down" a few strokes of the blue, into the pink.  Don't "fuss" too much.  Move on to the next petal.





Painting in this manner, move from petal to petal, but painting every other one, so that you don't get in trouble by painting right next to a petal that's still wet.  Change it a little on the bottom petals, the "falls", by touching some rose to the bottom lacy edge, at the end.  







Now, move to the bottom flower.  Try something a little different with these petals, using the same three colors.  Wet half of the petal with clear water, then touch the frilly edge with the Rose, all the way around the edge.






Then, touch the other edge with the magenta, leaving the middle unpainted.  




Then, paint a few strokes of the blue.






Continue painting every other petal, in this way.







Go back up to the top flower and finish painting the petals . . . 




And, do the same with the bottom flower . . . 







7.  Paint the background leaves.  Clean off the inside area of the palette, and then prep three Greens -- Sap Green, Cobalt Blue + Aureolin Yellow, and Sap Green + Cobalt Blue.







Use these greens , wet in wet, to paint the background leaves -- first, one half . . . 




and then the other half . . . 









8.  Paint the stems.  Prep two greens -- Sap Green and Sap Green + Yellow; and Quinacridone Burnt Orange (or Burnt Sienna).








Use these colors to paint the stems and buds.






9.  Paint another layer of gold in the background.  Clean off the palette, and then prepare another gold wash. Once again, you'll be painting wet on dry, so be sure to mix enough paint/water.  This time, you will paint only the negative background shapes -- not the leaves.  And, after painting each shape, sprinkle it with salt.






Continue painting each background shape with the gold wash and sprinkling with salt, as you go.  Let this dry completely, and then brush off the salt.





10.  Mix up some purples.  Clear the gold wash off the palette, and then prep three dark colors -- French Ultramarine; Quinacridone Magenta + French Ultramarine; and, Alizarin Crimson + French Ultramarine.






11.  Darken the petals.  Using these three colors, paint each petal.  




Strengthen and deepen the colors, without becoming too opaque -- you want some of the original colors to show through.






Leave some of the upper petals as is, except for the base, which you can darken.









You can see how you don't darken every part of each petal, and that the bottom "falls" are generally darker than the upper petals.  

If you find that you've gotten too opaque, or that you want to lighten an area, lift out some highlights with a damp brush.






12.  Add more green to the leaves and stems.  Mix up two more greens, using Sap Green + Aureolin Yellow, and Sap Green + Cobalt Blue.






Paint all the leaves and stems again with these two greens and plenty of water, to strengthen the colors but still keep it transparent.






Add some more Burnt Orange or Burnt Sienna to the tan parts of the stems.




If you like, you can stop your painting right now, and call it done.  Or, you can proceed to finish, as I did, with the last two steps.  



13.  Paint a Burnt Orange glaze over the background shapes.  Mix up a wash of Quinacridone Burnt Orange.






Paint this orange wash over the background, to tone down the texture a bit.  (If you like the gold background with the texture, don't do this step.)








14.  Paint a few dark greens on the leaves and stems.  Mix up a dark green -- Sap Green + French Ultramarine.




Darken a few areas of the leaves and stems with this green.  And, you're finished!  Be sure to sign it!






























LESSON IX - Part 2: Purple Primroses - From Doodle to Painting



In this Purple Primrose project, we'll be using my Doodle of Primroses as a starting point.  We'll do the drawing in pencil, go over the pencil lines with a Micron Pen (or any black waterproof pen), and then paint the Primroses in layers of watercolor.








We will be changing this, somewhat -- making it a square format, showing more of the 2nd primrose and more of the leaves, so that it is a radial design.

Prepare your paper, by wetting and stapling it onto a board, or taping it onto the board, or using a watercolor block.

On dry paper, draw a square format, and then draw your design in pencil.  After you are satisfied with your drawing, go over the pencil lines with a black WATERPROOF pen (like a Micron, or a very fine Sharpie).  Then, erase all the pencil lines that you can still see.

Now, prep two colors for the background -- Cerulean Blue and Aureolin Yellow.  (If you don't have Cerulean Blue, use Cobalt Blue.  If you don't have Aureolin Yellow, use the coolest yellow you have, like Hansa Yellow or Winsor Yellow.)  Wet just the background -- everything except the two blossoms -- with clear water.  Then drop/stroke in your two colors.  Let the two colors mix on the page a little, without too much help from you and your brush.  Allow this to dry completely.










Clean these colors off your palette.  Now prep a few colors for your blossoms -- Quinacridone Rose (or Permanent Rose), Quinacridone Magenta (or Permanent Magenta), and Cobalt Blue.  

Wet the blossoms with clear water, and drop in those three colors.  This should be pretty light.








Using these same three colors, paint your next layer on the Primroses.  Work on a petal at a time,  wetting the petal first and dropping in the color.  Don't paint the frilly edges -- leave them as is, to give the petals some sparkle.  Keep the pinks and magentas towards the outer edges, and the blue coming out from the middle.  When the petal just starts to dry, "pull" some pink strokes into the middle.   












Now, move onto the leaves.  Clean off your palette, and then prep two greens -- Sap Green, and a mixture of Sap Green and Cobalt Blue.  Use these colors to paint the leaves, a section at a time -- leaving the veins unpainted.  To get this pebbly texture, paint these greens on a section, and when it starts to dry, touch the surface with a small damp brush, to lift off dots of color.  







Paint just the greens on those leaf shapes that are underneath, without adding the dotted texture.  It's easy to get too opaque, when painting with green -- so, be sure to use enough water.  You want to "alter" the color you are painting over, not totally cover it up.







To finish the background, add some darks.  Mix a dark green by adding French Ultramarine to Sap Green.  Paint this dark on a few of the background negative shapes.







To finish the painting, add some darks to the blossoms.  Mix a dark purple, using French Ultramarine and Quinacridone Magenta.  Use this dark to paint a few "crevice darks" to the middle of each blossom.  Add a little water to this dark mixture, and paint a few cast shadows, under some of the petals.  (Don't paint cast shadows too dark, or they will look like holes.)  You can even use this dark purple to paint a few more darks in the background.